Texas is a big ol’ state, and since I am located in central Texas, I have quite a few options for a weekend change of scenery. One of the coolest weekend trips I’ve taken is to Big Bend National Park. The landscape is so different from my usual territory, it really is stunning.
One of my favorite experiences (of any trip I’ve taken in Texas actually) was the hot springs. We ended every day here because a hot spring in the middle of the Texas desert doesn’t sound appealing during the scorching afternoon. It was a great place to visit in the evenings though. the whole park is so remote that there is hardly any light pollution, so once the sun sets, you can sit in the hot spring and gaze up at the Milky Way in stunning clarity. this picture was from one evening though when a storm was rolling in. I love a good storm, and sitting on the edge of Texas, staring across the Rio Grande into Mexico, listening to the thunder in the distance was something I will never forget.
Big Bend is a huge park (over 801,000 acres), so it was impossible to see everything in the short time we were there, but Santa Elena Canyon is one of the spots that you need to include on your itinerary. it’s a pretty easy hike since the steeper uphill portion is all paved and has handrails to help you haul yourself up the side of the canyon.
My recommendation though is that you make the effort to haul yourself out of bed early and get there quickly. it is one of the park’s highlights (and partially shaded during the day) so it gets a little more crowded the later you wait and there are several different tour groups that all stop at Santa Elena, so if you want a peaceful, almost meditative experience, beat them all there. It is worth it.
Like I said, it is a pretty mild hike, but it does take a little while. Don’t worry though, there are plenty of spots along the way to take a breather and just take in the beauty.
Another must while you are visiting this close to the border is hiring a guide and a burro to take you into Mexico. the tiny little town of Boquillas is just across the river, and the residents there seem to get by on what the tourists provide. There are a couple tiny restaurants and bars, but mainly the locals just set up tables to sell their wares.
The little spot that our guide took us to was delicious. they basically ask if you want food and then just bring you whatever they have prepared for the day; no menus, no choices, you get what you get. The people were friendly though and the beer was cold. Heads up though, YOU DO NEED YOUR PASSPORT. This is a crossing into another country and there is a customs station on both sides of the border. Don’t get down there, pay your $5 for your donkey, and then get turned down because you can’t legally enter Mexico (or get back).
The ruins that are scattered around the park are worth seeking out. Some are relatively easy to get to, and some are more remote, but they all have a little story and it is amazing to think of the lives these people lived a hundred years ago.
one of the most remarkable stories we read about was this old structure. in this squatty little home made from mud, rocks, and a little local local lumber a man and his family of almost 20 lived! I’m only 5’5 but I couldn’t stand up straight in it. Imagine almost 20 people living in it! On top of that, it is in one of the most remote parts of the park. There was nothing but the desert around for miles and miles. On top of that, the old patriarch lived to be over 100!
For those of us that are native Texans, the mountains are incredible and just make you feel so small. the hill country and the plateaus in the panhandle don’t come close. let me be clear, this is not a glamorous trip, but it is truly awesome in the most honest sense of the word. 3 days wasn’t enough to cover everything this place has to offer, so stay tuned… I hope to go back soon and I’ll Let y’all know all about it.
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